Além do Tejo · beyond the Tagus

Our
Alentejo

Our personal guide to the beaches, tables, trails and small places we love around Santiago do Cacém, Sines, Melides, Comporta, Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes.

Take it
slow.

This is not a definitive guide. It is a collection of the places where we like to shop, eat, swim and walk — more than enough to fill a few days or a week.

Our approachChoose one village, one beach and one good table. Let the rest of the day find you.

Don't miss

A first taste of the coast and countryside, without trying to tick every box.

MelidesLagoon + ocean

Praia de Melides

A wide beach beside a beautiful lagoon. Atis Beach Bar is usually open in summer; the restaurants by the car park are not our first choice.

SantiagoGolden hour

Castle & old town

Walk through quiet streets to the castle for views over tiled roofs, hills and plains towards the sea.

Santiago2–3 hours

Roman Miróbriga

Wander between the forum, bathhouses and ancient racecourse. Bring water; there is little shade.

Santo AndréPack a picnic

Monte Velho

A beautiful, quiet beach and the closest one to Santiago. There are no facilities, so bring food, water and shade.

Santo AndréHalf a day

Badoca Safari Park

An easy family outing, especially with younger children. Check current shows and times.

Porto Covo1–4 hours

Rota Vicentina

For a shorter taste of the Fishermen’s Trail, walk from Praia da Baía to Forte da Queimada and back.

Wear sturdy shoes
Porto CovoSheltered cove

Praia dos Buizinhos

A tiny beach between the rocks, often wonderfully sheltered when the wind comes from the north or west.

São TorpesSwim + surf

Kalux & the bay

Easy for swimming and popular with surfers. Kalux is both a beach bar and surf school.

Three good days

No strict schedule, just a natural rhythm.

01

Santiago & Rome

Coffee in town → Miróbriga → late lunch → castle in the soft evening light.

02

Slow Melides

Village and market → lagoon → beach → early dinner in Melides.

03

The wild coast

Porto Covo → cliff walk → fish lunch → São Torpes or Pessegueiro at sunset.

Our tables

From fish straight off the quay to an old hippie with an unforgettable pine-nut tart.

Relvas VerdesVery local

Altinho do Lobo

Two restaurants joined together in a tiny village. At weekends locals come for lamb stew and wild boar. One portion often feeds two.

A personal favourite
SantiagoTraditional

Mercado à Mesa

Above the covered market, with a polished take on traditional Portuguese cooking.

Santo AndréTerrace

Giz a Praia

Close to the beach and good for lunch or dinner, with friendly service and a pleasant terrace.

SinesQuayside fish

O Bejinha

Choose your fish, squid or prawns at the counter and they go straight onto the barbecue.

Do not miss
SinesThursday fado

Mercearia 27

Small, atmospheric and refined. On Thursdays the tables make way for live fado around 10pm.

MelidesFull of character

O Melidense

Carlos hosts this charming time-capsule restaurant. Order the pine-nut tart whenever it is available.

MelidesFish + atmosphere

O Fadista

Often full at lunch and dinner. Plenty of fish specials and a warm Portuguese atmosphere.

MelidesItalian

Tosca

A lovely courtyard and excellent pizzas. There is also a takeaway hatch on the square.

Deixa-o-RestoGood wine list

Ti Lena

A polished restaurant with an extensive wine list and the feel of a South African wine estate.

Porto CovoWine bar

Abranda

A lovely wine bar on the village square. Usually open Friday to Sunday; check before travelling.

V.N. de MilfontesLunch in the dunes

Yabalulu

Ottolenghi-inspired plates, fresh juices and good coffee near a beautiful beach.

ComportaBeach lunch

Sal & Sublime

Both sit beautifully at Praia do Carvalhal. Sublime is polished and expensive; Sal is friendlier on the wallet.

Eat like a local

Markets, bakeries and useful places that make a holiday day easier.

Pastelarias

Princesa by the market and Serra by the town hall are our Santiago picks.

Fresh & nearby

Mercado for fish, Talhos do Albano for meat and A Quinta do Horácio for farm produce.

Supermarkets

Lidl Santo André is large and has a market beside it on Thursdays. Continente and Aldi are reliable.

Feet in the sand

Lagoa ó Mar is the nearby beach bar where you truly sit in the sand, beside the lagoon.

Comporta day

Try Sublime Resort, Quinta da Comporta or Comporta Café by the sea.

Aerial view of Praia da Aberta Nova

More beach

In summer, Bar Beach Alentejana opens at Aberta Nova. Comporta and Carvalhal offer pricier beach clubs.

Good to know

Easy does it.

Best time to visitAll year. Winters are mild and the fresh Atlantic keeps summers pleasantly warm rather than oppressively hot.
Never too busyThe area rarely feels crowded. There is no need to set off early just to find somewhere to park.
A car helpsThe loveliest places are spread out and public transport is limited.
Atlantic breezeBring a light layer even on warm days, especially for evenings by the sea.
Short walkSalgueiral da Galiza is a half-hour boardwalk through wetlands beside the lagoon.
Opening timesHours change with the season. Check restaurants and beach bars before you leave.

Going to Lisbon?

Our favourite markets, tables, art and dance floors in the city.

Explore Lisbon ↗